Joe’s Guide to Munich

TABLE OF CONTENTS

MAP

INTRODUCTION

Munich is one of those cities that sneaks up on you. You arrive expecting beer halls and lederhosen, and while those things absolutely exist (and how!), what you don’t expect is just how polished, livable, and genuinely charming the place is. It’s got the energy of a big city but somehow feels relaxed—like it knows it doesn’t have to prove anything to anybody. The streets are clean, the trains run on time, and people somehow look effortlessly put together, even when they’re holding a sausage the size of their forearm.

It’s also surrounded by some of the most picturesque towns and landscapes in Germany, all within easy reach by train or car. You can go from strolling past the surfable wave in the English Garden to exploring medieval villages or Baroque palaces in under an hour. We used Munich as our home base for several days and found that the day trips were just as memorable as the city itself—though nothing quite beats a morning wander through the Viktualienmarkt with a fresh pretzel and the vague sense that you should be wearing wool.

In this post, I’ll walk through what we saw, what we skipped, what surprised us, and what I’d do differently next time. If you’re planning a visit to Bavaria—whether it’s your first time or your fifth—Munich is a great place to start (and an even better place to linger). It’s a city that manages to feel both distinctly German and totally its own thing, serving as the focal point and capital of the Free State of Bavaria.

Special thanks to “Little Buddy” Andrew, as he’ll be helping me with this whirlwind tour of Munich…

ATTRACTIONS

Munich has a ton of places to go, things to see. These are the highlights in the city, followed by some outside of the city.

Rick Steves’ Munich City Walk 🔺🔺🔺

A great way to get acquainted with Munich is the Rick Steves Munich City Walk. This self-guided tour winds through the heart of the city, offering insights into landmarks that have stood the test of time.​

The walk starts at Marienplatz, Munich’s central square, where the New Town Hall’s glockenspiel performance captures the attention of onlookers. (If you time the beginning of your walk at 11 AM or noon, you should see the performance of the glockenspiel. Rope off a good 10 minutes for this.) From there, the tour takes you to St. Peter’s Church, an icon of the city. The walk continues to the nearby Viktualienmarkt, an open-air market bustling with local vendors offering everything from fresh produce to traditional Bavarian delicacies–and a super cool maypole.

Continuing on, the route takes you past the Jewish Church, Munich City Museum, and Asam Church. The Asam Church is a little Baroque masterpiece tucked away on Sendlinger Straße, which seems totally out of place when you enter. Sendlinger Straße is a great place to shop–but more on that later.

The tour then winds back up to Marienplatz, and takes another turn down Kaufingerstraße (another great shopping area), and turns in front of Frauenkirche, which greets you with its iconic twin domes–a symbol of Munich’s skyline. After doubling back behind the new town hall, you make a quick stop by the famous Hofbrauhaus (more on that later as well).

The walk culminates by weaving up and around the Residenz, the former royal palace of the Bavarian monarchs, and the adjacent Hofgarten, a serene garden perfect for reflection. Throughout the tour, Rick Steves’ commentary provides historical context and anecdotes that bring each site to life.​ I highly recommend the Rick Steves Audio Europe app which offers a timed audio guide which you can listen to while you walk around the city. The best part–the app and the walk are both absolutely free and you can pause the tour at any time!

Alte Pinakothek🔺🔺

Even if you’re not the type to spend hours pondering brushstrokes and baroque lighting, the Alte Pinakothek is absolutely worth a stop. It’s packed wall-to-wall with European masterpieces from the 14th to the 18th century. We’re talking works by Leonardo da Vinci, Albrecht Dürer (his self-portrait is one of my favorites from the museum), Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt, and Raphael—basically the rock stars of Renaissance and Baroque art.

Bonus tip: since the Neue Pinakothek (focused on 19th-century art) is closed for renovations right now, many of its greatest hits have been moved over to the Alte Pinakothek. That means you can also catch some great highlights from the Neue Pinakothek (Van Gogh, Cézanne, Klimt, Manet, Monet, Gauguin, Degas, etc.) right now at the Alte Pinakothek–and they’re all included with your regular Alte Pinakothek admission. It’s like getting two museums for the price of one–an incredible deal.

Munich Museum of Egyptian Art 🔺

The Museum of Egyptian Art is one of Munich’s most underrated gems. It’s a sleek, modern space that feels like a mix between a high-end gallery and the interior of a Egyptian pyramid (but more roomy) than a standard, boring museum. The collection spans everything from towering statues of pharaohs to delicate jewelry, hieroglyph-covered coffins, to idols, to everyday items from ancient Egyptian life.

What really sets this museum apart, though, is the audio tour. Included with admission, it’s not your usual “press 7 to hear about this broken pot” situation. The system knows exactly where you are and automatically gives you a visual choice to see information about nearby objects, adding in images, diagrams, and context right on the screen. (It’s especially cool to be able to see items in their full context–when a fragment is on display, generally the audio tour will show you how the fragment fit into the larger statue / bowl / building / whatever it came from. It’s like the museum version of a smart friend who doesn’t talk too much. That is… unless you ask him to. The museum is great for adults, curious kids, and anyone who appreciates ancient artifacts presented with a little 21st-century polish.

Deutsches Museum 🔺

This place is massive—one of the largest science and technology museums in the world—and covers everything from astronomy to printing to musical instruments to health sciences to nuclear fission. It offers an encyclopedic look into science topics that can keep keep kids (and dads who still think they’re kids and may occasionally pump out a travel blog article) entertained for hours.

It’s also refreshingly hands-on. Unlike a lot of museums where you’re constantly being told not to touch anything, the Deutsches Museum encourages interaction. There’s something here for every flavor of nerd, whether you’re into space travel, bridges, historic ships, or just want to see the world’s first diesel engine. Plan to spend at least half a day—more if you’re the type who likes to read every plaque and press every button.

Munich Residenz 🔺

The Munich Residenz is… fine. It’s an enormous complex that served as the royal palace of the Bavarian monarchs, and parts of it are genuinely interesting—especially the Antiquarium, a long, ornate, barrel-vaulted hall that looks like something out of an Indiana Jones fever dream (pictured above). But a lot of the palace was heavily damaged during World War II and has since been rebuilt, which kind of takes the air out of the “wow” factor. If you’ve ever been to the Würzburg Residenz (which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and basically Versailles with a German accent), this one might feel a little underwhelming by comparison.

To make matters worse, we arrived a bit later in the afternoon and couldn’t, for the life of us, find the actual entrance. The signage is minimal, and the place is so sprawling that we felt like we were wandering through a scavenger hunt just to locate the front door. By the time we got in, staff members were already politely herding people along, and we’re fairly certain we were quietly skipped past a few rooms—even though we exited before closing time. It wasn’t a total miss, but if you’re tight on time in Munich, this one can be bumped down the list without too much regret.

Day Trips

Munich can serve as a really great jumping off point for a number of locations which are worth checking out (many of which worth their own blog article, and will hopefully get their own some day.

Just to mention a couple from the jump that I won’t get into here: I’ve got to recommend Regensburg and Nuremburg. (I hope someday to write an article about each one of those cities and link them here as well.)

Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site 🔺🔺

Located just a short S-Bahn ride from Munich, the Dachau Memorial Site is an important and sobering half-day trip. It was the first Nazi concentration camp, serving as a model for others that followed. Walking through the grounds—especially the reconstructed barracks, the crematorium, and the museum—leaves a lasting impact. It’s not an easy visit, but a meaningful one.

That said, if you’re traveling with kids, this might be one to skip if you have the option. The museum is not recommended for young kids–though I didn’t find anything in the museum that would have been super harrowing to kids (without explicitly presenting them with the content), I think the staff more just doesn’t welcome kids into the museum. If you’re visiting with kids and you have to bring them, I’d recommend preparing the older ones ahead of time, and maybe splitting up to tackle the museum separately while one adult waits outside and explores the grounds with younger ones.

It’s a place that deserves quiet reflection and some emotional bandwidth—but if you’re in Munich and want to better understand the weight of history, it’s a powerful and worthwhile experience.

Neuschwanstein Castle / Linderhof Castle / Oberammergau 🔺🔺🔺

If you’re in Munich on a Sunday and wondering what to do while half the city takes the day off (and most shops are locked up tight by law, as German law only permits them to operate on a small number of Sundays per year), this day trip with Gray Line is a fantastic way to make the most of it. We booked their full-day tour to Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace, with a scheduled stop in Oberammergau. Since we went on a Sunday, the tour guide skipped the Oberammergau portion, but pointed out the city as we drove through it. Honestly, it wasn’t a loss as on Sunday, much of Oberammergau is closed. The extra time at the castles was much appreciated and gave us a more relaxed experience without feeling rushed in either location.

Schnitzel is everywhere, and it comes in a variety of delightful styles. You’ve got classic Wiener Schnitzel (veal), pork schnitzel, mushroom cream schnitzel, pepper schnitzel (see above), Jager schnitzel, and others. No matter the version, it’s crispy, filling, and always pairs well with a cold beer and some form of potato.

The tour itself was really well-run. The bus was comfortable, the guide was knowledgeable and entertaining without being overbearing, and the whole thing was easy and efficient—which is exactly what you want when trying to pack a couple of remote Bavarian fairytale castles into a single day. Linderhof was ornate and over-the-top in the best way, and Neuschwanstein? Just as dreamy in person as it is in every stock photo and Disney intro you’ve ever seen. In fact, I think Neuschwanstein Castle may be more Disney than actual Disney. (I wasn’t expecting to walk directly from Mad King Ludwig’s dressing room into a grotto that looked like it could be from one of the Pirates of the Caribbean rides). You could certainly drive it on your own (or take the train), but if you’re looking to coast for a day and let someone else handle logistics, this is the way to go.

Of course, Neuschwanstein castle is the end of the “Romantic Road.” For the focal point of the romantic road, you’ll want to check out…

Rothenburg ob der Tauber 🔺🔺🔺

If a storybook came to life, it would probably look a lot like Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Perched on a hill above the Tauber River, this perfectly preserved medieval town feels like it was plucked straight from the pages of a fairytale—or at the very least, from the set of a Disney movie. (In fact, Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of the locations that inspired some of the design of the Germany pavilion in Epcot.)

Remarkably, it probably shouldn’t still exit. During World War II, American forces were poised to destroy Rothenburg to push through German lines, but an American commander who knew the historical significance of the town reached out and asked the German officer in charge to defy Hitler’s orders and surrender the city peacefully. Against all odds, he did. As a result, the old town was spared—and the world is better for it.

As a day trip from Munich, Rothenburg is a bit of a haul (roughly 3 hours, 40 minutes by train each way–accessible through a Bayern pass), but it’s more than worth the effort. The town’s medieval walls are still fully intact, and you can actually walk along them for sweeping views of the rooftops, towers, and countryside. At the heart of the main square, the Meistertrunk glockenspiel tells the legendary tale of the town’s mayor who supposedly saved Rothenburg by downing an absurdly large tankard of wine in one go. (A skill I’m sure many have tried to replicate. It is just a legend, though–in reality, a bribe was probably involved.) Around every corner, there’s another half-timbered house that looks like it was built with gingerbread and good intentions.

There’s no shortage of quirky things to do, either. You can pick up a Schneeball (literally “snowball”)—a local pastry that looks like a weaponized ball of dough, usually coated in chocolate, sugar, or nuts. Visit the Medieval Crime Museum for a deep dive into the fascinating and horrifying punishments of yesteryear (nothing says family fun like a full display of shame masks and torture devices, and be sure to see the iron maiden). Or if you’re more in the Christmas spirit, the Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village and the German Christmas Museum are open year-round. Christmas in July? Why not! When you’re in Rothenburg, you are in a fairy tale.

Speaking of fairy tales: for a scene that looks like it’s just out of one, be sure to swing by the Plönlein, that ridiculously photogenic fork in the road with a yellow house and two towers—it’s the most iconic photo spot in town, and it lives up to the hype.

Inside St. James’ Church, you’ll find an incredibly detailed wooden altar carved by Tilman Riemenschneider, one of the finest woodworkers who ever lived. It holds a holy relic said to contain a drop of Christ’s blood, but even if that’s not your thing, the artistry is absolutely jaw-dropping. (The removable Judas is a super nice touch.)

And don’t sleep on the shopping. The town is packed with boutiques, artisan shops, and stores that somehow make souvenirs feel classy. Whether you’re looking for handcrafted Christmas ornaments, cuckoo clocks, or a carved wooden Nativity set that costs more than your hotel room, Rothenburg delivers.

It’s charming, it’s walkable, and it’s packed with enough personality to make you forget how early you had to wake up to get there. (And–the earlier the better. Rothenburg with no tourists is purely magical, and worth the additional train fare to be able to get there earlier than what a Bayern pass will allow.)

Note: If I had the opportunity to take only one long day trip from Munich, I’d probably pick Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

🎼Salzburg, Austria 🔺🔺🔺

Just a quick hop across the border from Munich, Salzburg is dripping with alabaster charm, history, and enough Mozart references to last you a lifetime. This is the city where the man himself was born, where he performed as a child prodigy, and where his silhouette graces everything from concert posters to chocolates. That said, we didn’t actually go inside Mozart’s house or attend a concert—so if you’re here for a deep biographical dive, that’s still on the table. (Those things are not super ideal for most kids, though.) But even without stepping inside the museum, his presence is everywhere, and the city does a great job of blending music history with picture-perfect Alpine vibes.

One of the absolute highlights was taking the funicular up to Festung Hohensalzburg, the giant hilltop fortress that watches over the city like it owns the place. The views from the top are phenomenal—spires, domes, winding alleys, and the Salzach River snaking through it all like a scene out of a very fancy snow globe. The fortress itself is impressively well-preserved, and wandering through its various halls, museums, and ramparts gives you a great sense of Salzburg’s centuries-long role as a regional power player (and occasional castle defense enthusiast).

Back in the old town, don’t miss strolling down Getreidegasse, Kranzlmarkt, and Judengasse—three interconnected pedestrian streets lined with wrought-iron signs, charming storefronts, and the kind of shops where you start seriously considering a plethora of impractical purchases. It’s great fun. This is Salzburg at its most atmospheric: cobblestone streets, pastel buildings, and the faint sound of classical music wafting through the air (or maybe that was just the gift shops).

And yes, you absolutely need to try a Mozartkugel (Mozart ball)—the famous chocolate and marzipan confection that Salzburg proudly claims as its own. There are several versions floating around, but the “original” ones are still made by hand at Fürst, and they’re worth seeking out. If you leave Salzburg without eating at least one, the ghost of Mozart may judge you just a little.

Zurich, Switzerland 🔺🔺🔺

Okay, I’ll admit it—Zurich might not be the first place that comes to mind for a day trip from Munich, but it makes for a pretty memorable one. It’s about four hours each way by ICE train, which makes for a long day, but if you’re up for the ride, you’ll be rewarded with lakeside views, spotless streets, and a city so efficient it practically runs on precision engineering and melted cheese. Once you’re there, following Rick Steves’ walking tour is a great way to get your bearings. It starts by heading south from the Hauptbahnhof down Bahnhofstrasse, one of the world’s fanciest shopping streets (bring your credit card, and maybe a small loan–and the stores get more expensive as you head towards the lake), winds across the Limmat River, then loops back through the Old Town, eventually leading you down to the edge of Lake Zurich.

The walk gives you a little bit of everything: high-end boutiques, medieval churches, narrow alleyways that beg to be explored, and river views that make you consider a second mortgage just to live here. Zurich’s got this understated elegance—less fairytale, more quietly sophisticated—with a deep sense of history tucked under all that polished modern design.

A highlight of the trip was the Kunsthaus Zurich, the city’s premier art museum. Not only does it have a really solid collection—including works by Van Gogh, Munch, Chagall, and Giacometti—it also does a fascinating job of addressing art that was stolen or displaced during World War II. It doesn’t shy away from the complicated history, and the result is a thoughtful, engaging museum that’s more than just pretty paintings on white walls. If you’re into art, history, or just need a calm space to decompress after accidentally walking into a Swiss watch store and pretending you weren’t sticker-shocked, this is the spot.

And when you get hungry, Zeughauskeller is a must. It’s housed in a former 15th-century armory, but today it’s packed with people trading sword racks for sausage platters. The food was fantastic—classic, hearty Swiss-German fare done right—and the kind of place where the beer flows, the portions are generous, and you seriously consider writing a thank-you note to the chef.

FOOD

The food in Munich is comfort food heaven—if your idea of comfort involves meats, carbs, and beer that tastes like it was filtered through a choir of angels. And while I went in expecting good pretzels and bratwurst, what I found was a city that truly delivers at the table. Here are the standouts:

Augustiner Beer

I have to recommend Augustiner while visiting Munich. It’s smooth, malty, crisp, and deeply satisfying. And no, you can’t get it in Texas (at least not yet, as I’m writing this) which somehow makes it taste even better when you’re drinking it fresh from the source. It’s served all over the city, but the best way to enjoy it is straight from the wooden keg at one of their own establishments.

Augustiner beer, of course, comes from Augustiner-Bräu, Munich’s oldest privately owned brewery, which was originally founded by Augustinian monks in 1328. The brewery’s roots are literally monastic, and its beer still follows traditional recipes and brewing methods. While the brewery itself has since moved operations out of the monastery, the name stuck—and today, several restaurants and beer halls across Munich proudly serve their legendary beer under the Augustiner banner, including the next couple of restuarants mentioned here…

Augustiner Klosterwirt

This was, hands down, the best meal I had in Germany. We started with a fresh, warm pretzel (as one should), followed by traditional sausages and potato salad, all washed down with Augustiner beer poured straight from the wooden barrel like a gift from the gods. The setting—next to the historic cathedral and just off a quiet square—made it even better. If you only eat one meal in Munich, make it this one.

Augustiner-Keller

Not to be confused with Klosterwirt, this place is huge and has more of a beer hall vibe. (It is quite quintessential, even outdoors—the Biergarten here has been featured in the past on the TV show “The Amazing Race.”) We had another iconic pretzel here (TasteAtlas.com bestows upon them the title of the best pretzels in the world), served with Keller cheese—a tangy, spreadable dip that looks weird but tastes like cheesy gold. For dinner, I had the pfefferschnitzel—pan-fried pork with a peppery cream sauce. We were seated in the enormous beer hall beneath a ceiling covered in painted crests from cities all over Germany. It felt festive without being touristy (though, unfortunately we had missed the live music by about an hour).

Hofbräuhaus

I mean… you kind of have to go. It’s loud, packed, and a little chaotic, and a lot touristy, but it’s Munich’s most famous beer hall for a reason. While the food isn’t going to win any Michelin stars, it’s solid enough. Big sausages, roast pork, sauerkraut, pretzels—they have all the usual suspects. The beer’s flowing, the oompah band’s playing, and you’re sitting in what used to be the royal brewery. It’s like going to Times Square in New York—touristy, but worth it at least once. (Make sure to get your pretzels from the “pretzel lady.”)

Hofbräukeller am Wiener Platz

This is a slightly lesser-known Hofbräu location that also happens to be historically significant—this building was the site of early Nazi Party meetings, including speeches by Hitler before his rise to power, and even his first ever such speech.

Today, thankfully, it’s just a nice place to get schnitzel. I had a particularly delicious one here, and the beer (surprise!) was excellent. It is a bit out of the way for most tourist days in Munich, but it is a worthwhile detour.

Hans im Glück / Peter Pane

Germany’s answer(s) to the modern burger bar, these two chains both offer a pretty solid burger if you need a break from schnitzel and sausages. Both started from the same company, but—because “drama”—some legal squabble and corporate infighting led to a split. Now they compete with basically the same menu and only slightly different vibes. Great fries, decent cocktails, and a nice nod to fairy tale branding. (While us Americans know all about Peter Pan, in case you don’t know the story of “Hans in Luck,” you may want to read this to add context.) Think of it as gourmet fast food with birch trees inside the restaurant.

Franconian Cuisine

While Bavaria gets most of the food spotlight, don’t sleep on Franconian dishes—especially if you’re traveling north toward Nuremberg or Rothenburg. You’ll find darker beers, spiced sausages like Nürnberger Rostbratwurst, and heartier stews. Franconian potato dumplings (Kartoffelklöße) are a dense, delicious carbohydrate bomb that pairs beautifully with gravy, roast pork, or anything else that fits on a meat platter. And, of course, there’s pork knuckle. It doesn’t get any more “meat-and-taters” than that!

Schnitzel

Schnitzel is everywhere, and it comes in a variety of delightful styles. You’ve got classic Wiener Schnitzel (veal), pork schnitzel, mushroom cream schnitzel, and even pepper schnitzel (mentioned earlier) or others. No matter the version, it’s crispy, filling, and always pairs well with a cold beer and some form of potato.

Weisswurst (Weißwurst)

This pale, delicate sausage is a Bavarian breakfast / brunch staple—traditionally served before noon, with pretzels and Bavarian sweet mustard. It’s not grilled; it’s gently boiled and should be eaten by peeling off the casing (you don’t eat the skin unless you want judgmental looks from the locals). Or if you really want to blend in with the Germans, you can zuzeln the sausage (slice through the sausage casing and literally suck the sausage out of the casing… zuzeln is the Bavarian word for “suck.” And no–I’m not kidding.) Perhaps the real MVP here is the sweet Bavarian mustard—zesty, a little tangy, and great to bring home as a souvenir. Seriously, buy a jar or tube at a grocery store. You’ll thank yourself later–it goes good on almost anything and it’s a super cheap souvenir.

Bottle Deposit Tip

Not food, but food related: If you grab drinks at a grocery store (or anywhere else for that matter), don’t forget to return your bottles for a refund. Most bottles and cans in Germany include a deposit (Pfand)—just toss them into the return machine near the store entrance and collect your receipt. It’s easy, satisfying, and it buys you another pretzel (or, in our case, a whole lotta Haribo bears).

TRANSPORTATION

Unless you have a deep, abiding love for parallel parking and deciphering German street signs under duress, skip the rental car. Munich’s public transportation system—composed of the U-Bahn (subway), S-Bahn (commuter rail), trams, and buses—is a marvel of efficiency, coverage, and general sanity. It’ll get you just about anywhere you want to go, and you won’t need to worry about traffic, tolls, or the surprisingly limited (and expensive) parking options. Honestly, the only time a car might make sense is if you’re doing a day trip to somewhere off the train grid—like Neuschwanstein or the Alps. Even then, trains often cover those routes just fine.

Navigating Transit Passes

Munich’s public transit system (the MVV) gives you a few flexible (and VERY confusing) options, depending on how much you’re traveling and with how many people. (Note that these rules apply to Munich and are somewhat different in other cities… like Frankfurt or Berlin):

  • Single Trip Ticket – Good for–you guessed it–one trip. This is best if you’re only going a short distance and not planning to hop around much. This ticket is good on U-Bahn, S-Bahn, busses, and streetcars. (REQUIRES VALIDATION.)
  • Short Distance Ticket – This is only good for a couple of stops. They REQUIRE VALIDATION.
  • Stripe Ticket (Streifenkarte) – This is, essentially, a bunch of short distance tickets. They’re bit more economical if you’re taking a few short trips here and there. You validate a strip or two depending on the distance of your journey. These are so challenging to understand (though probably the cheapest option), these REQUIRE VALIDATION, but it’s challenging to know how many “strips” to validate for your trip. This got so confusing, I didn’t bother.
  • 1-Day Ticket (Tageskarte) – This is the MVP for most travelers who are staying in Munich for the day. One flat price gives you unlimited travel for the day within specified zones. Most of the time, you only need zone M (the inner city). If you’re going to or from the airport to downtown, you’ll need zones M-5, as the airport is in zone 5. There’s even a Group Day Ticket, which can cover up to 5 people and is a solid deal if you’re traveling with family or friends. (In Munich, we did this almost exclusively.) If you’re riding with your wife, this is probably your best option. Up to 2 kids ride free with an adult. There is a child’s ticket, but you shouldn’t need them if the kids are traveling with you. Either way, you shouldn’t have to validate these–you buy them, and they’re good until 6 AM on the following day. (So–if you buy a ticket at 1 AM, the ticket would be good for the next 29 hours.)
  • Airport-City-Day-Ticket – This is basically an already-validated day pass that allows you to travel to and from the airport.
  • CityTourCard / München Card – These are two different tourist passes which include a day pass, built into them. (You still have to pick the zones you want, though!) This is already validated. They both offer slightly different museum discounts / restaurant discounts / experience discounts. You can save a few bucks by getting one of these… but you should go into either pass having a plan of exactly what you want to do on the card to make sure you don’t waste your money.
  • Bayern Ticket – This regional gem lets you travel anywhere in Bavaria (and even to some bordering areas) for one low price. The ticket can be used from 9 AM on the date that it’s good for until 3 AM the following morning… unless it’s a weekend, public holiday, Christmas Eve, or New Years Eve… then it can be used from midnight until 3 AM the following day. The pass is valid on most regional trains, buses, and trams—but not on long-distance trains like the ICE (InterCity Express. More on ICE trains in a minute.) If you try to use it on an ICE train, be prepared for an awkward chat with the conductor and probably a sizable fine. (Also–this ticket will allow you to get all the way to Salzburg, Austria and back!) This doesn’t require validation, but you need to list the legal name of your passengers on the blanks of the pass–so have a pen handy when you get the ticket! (Your kids don’t need to be on there, if you’re traveling with them…)

Confused yet? I’ll bet… (If only they had Tokyo’s Suica! 🐧) Oh well…

Speaking of ICE trains…

Planning Long-Distance Travel: Mind the Letters

If you’re heading beyond Munich—say to Berlin or Zurich—you’ll want to check out DB (Deutsche Bahn) for long-distance train tickets. The ICE, IC, and EC trains are comfortable, fast, and… really not cheap if you wait until the last minute. Book early through the DB app or website, and you can score some great deals. The app is also incredibly helpful for trip planning and real-time updates. You can save your itinerary, keep your tickets handy, and even check platform changes on the fly. Before you go, download the DB app from the app store (and it doesn’t hurt to register a BahnBonus account to collect loyalty points–that’s a separate app), but figure out which trains you plan on taking. And make sure they are compatible with the train you picked!

What The Sam Hill Do All These German Train Letters Mean?

Good question. Here’s a quick listing. There’s more, but these are the most common you’re probably going to encounter:

  • DB – Deutsche Bahn – (Literally translates to “German Railway.”) The national German railway company. It’s owned by the government of Germany.
  • ICE (Intercity-Express) – The fastest (DB) train type, connecting major cities across Germany.  Not included with Bayern Pass.
  • IC (InterCity) – Long-distance trains within Germany, slower than ICE.  Not included with Bayern Pass.
  • EC (EuroCity) – International long-distance trains crossing borders.  Not included with Bayern Pass.
  • D (Durchgangszug, or D-Zug) – A type of express train. I think it translates to “direct train.”
  • WE – Despite research, I still am not sure, but I think it means WESTBahn, which is a kind of express train. In any case, it’s not included with the Bayern Pass
  • RJ (Rail Jet) – Train operated by the Austrians / Czech. Not included with Bayern Pass.
  • RJX (Rail Jet Express) – See above. Not included with Bayern Pass.
  • TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) – French for “High Speed Train.”  Connects German and French cities.  Not included with Bayern Pass.
  • RE (RegionalExpress) – Regional express train with fewer stops than RB. Included on Bayern Pass.
  • RB (RegionalBahn) – Standard regional train stopping at most stations. Included on Bayern Pass.
  • S (S-Bahn) – Local commuter rail service in major cities.  Included on Bayern Pass.
  • SBB CFF FFS – Swiss Federal Railways. (These initials are for essentially every other abbreviation other than English. Schweizerische BundesBahnen (German); Chemins de Fer Fédéraux suisses (French); Ferrovie Federali Svizzere (Italian).
  • U (U-Bahn) – Underground commuter train. Included on Bayern Pass.
  • BRB (Bayerische Regiobahn) – Private company, but remarkably included in Bayern pass. This is the train that you can take from Munich to Salzburg, Austria (but no further!)

Trust, but Verify: Timing Matters

German trains have a reputation for punctuality—and yes, they’re generally very good. But generally doesn’t mean always. Things happen: weather, track work, medical delay (this almost cost me a flight back home across the Atlantic… and it wasn’t my medical emergency) or God knows what else. If you’re trying to catch a flight or have a timed ticket for a connecting train, it’s smart to build in a buffer or have a backup plan. Don’t schedule your airport departure down to the wire unless you like sweating through your carry-on. Also note that U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains run at a much lower frequency in the early morning. Always plan to be at your platform 30 minutes early, and make sure to take into account the lower frequency of the trains in the early morning.

Nighttime at the Four Points by Sheraton Munich Arabellapark

ACCOMMODATIONS

Being the American that I am, I generally prefer to stay in Marriott brands and Hilton brand hotels. Luckily, in Munich, there’s some great options that won’t break the bank.

When I went to Munich, I brought my family. To that end, we almost stayed in the Residence Inn Munich Central, which I think would have worked out pretty well. However, we ended up getting two rooms (and splitting into a “boys room” and “girls room”) and stayed at the Four Points by Sheraton Munich Arabellapark. It was only a little bit more (I think less than $150 total–just under $19 / night for each of the 8 nights we were staying there.) This worked out really well as we had 2 full bathrooms (2 bathtubs, 2 showers, 2 toilets, etc.)

No matter where you stay, I’d recommend not staying any farther than about a quarter of a mile walk away from public transportation–ideally a U-Bahn station, if you can swing it (as there are more trains and they generally run more often–because you’re more in the city). The Four Points by Sheraton Munich Arabellapark is only about 1000′ walk (less than .2 miles) from the Arabellapark station, or about 1550′ (.3 miles) from Richard-Strauss-Straße station. It’s super convenient. Additionally, there were a number of decent restaurants in the area around Arabellapark, as well as a convenient grocery store.

SHOPPING

If you’re the type who likes to come home with more than just memory cards full of photos and questionable fridge magnets (no judgment—I collect them too), Munich’s shopping scene has you covered.

Two of the main pedestrian shopping streets—Kaufingerstraße and Sendlinger Straße—form a retail artery stretching out from Marienplatz, the heart of the city. You’ll find everything here from high-end fashion and popular European brands to quirky specialty shops and sweet tooth nirvana. And since it’s a pedestrian zone, you can stroll, snack, and shop without dodging traffic. Just other shoppers. Lots of them.

3 Quick Favorites:

  • Servus Heimat (just off Marienplatz) – Think Bavarian-style home goods, clever graphic tees, and fun, artsy souvenirs that feel curated rather than kitschy. Well… some are very kitschy but in an awesome way. It’s tourist-friendly without being tourist-trappy.
  • The LEGO Store (Kaufingerstraße) – Yes, it’s a LEGO store, but it’s an impressive LEGO store. The Munich / Germany displays alone are worth a look, and if you’re traveling with kids, it’s doubly worth a stop.
  • Haribo Shop (Sendlinger Straße) – Gummy bears. Giant gummy bears. Gummy frogs. Gummy Cola bottles. Ice cube gummy bears. Plush Haribo Golden Bear mascots. You name it, they gummified it. This is like Willy Wonka’s gummy annex, and it’s dangerously easy to buy “a few things” and walk out with a kilo of sugar. And it’s remarkably easy on the wallet.

And of course, in the surrounding streets and arcades around Marienplatz, you’ll find plenty of boutiques, bookstores, chocolatiers, and bakeries—perfect for popping in and out as you wander.

While I didn’t get the chance to visit during the holidays, I’d be remiss not to mention the Munich Christmas Market (Christkindlmarkt), which takes over Marienplatz and surrounding streets in late November through Christmas Eve. (The footprint of the 2024 market is in my map above.) Picture rows of wooden stalls glowing with twinkle lights, the smell of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine in the air, and vendors selling everything from handmade ornaments and wooden toys to wool scarves and gingerbread hearts. It’s the kind of scene that makes you want to grab a brautwurst and a mulled wine and impulse-buy your way into needing to purchase another suitcase. If you’re lucky enough to be in Munich during the season, make time for it (and don’t forget to bring your appetite).

LAST THOUGHTS

Munich is one of those cities that feels both grand and grounded. It’s steeped in history and tradition, yet easy to navigate, approachable, and full of unexpected charm. Whether you’re wandering the halls of a palace, sipping a beer in a centuries-old garden, or debating which Haribo flavor to smuggle home, the city makes it easy to slow down and enjoy the moment. I left feeling like I’d only scratched the surface—and already thinking about what I’d do next time. If Munich’s on your list, bump it up a few spots. And if it’s not on your list… well, it should be.